There pruning of roses is one of those topics that animate discussions between enthusiasts. Some support the low and energetic pruning of roses, while others are for high (last year's wood) or moderate pruning. The truth is that the choice of one system or the other depends on the type of rose garden, the climate and the aesthetic result you want to achieve, but it is a very technical matter.
However it is understood, we all agree that the most suitable time for the pruning of roses it is the end of the vegetative rest, when the circulation of the lymph is still slowed down but the new buds are preparing to swell. In Italy, depending on the region, this period arrives approximately between February (in the south) and March (in the north).
In pruning of roses in winter, the most important, choosing the right time is essential. Pruning too early would expose the rose to the risk of freezing, while pruning too late would risk overlapping the vegetative restart causing the rose to lose too much sap, weakening it.
There winter pruning of roses it is the most important of the year, but it is not the only one. This operation should be followed by a second one in summer, also called green pruning, which has the purpose of revitalizing the rose bush after the first flowering. The time for pruning green roses usually coincides with the end of June, when the roses rest after giving their first abundant flowers and rearrange themselves for the next flowering.
In roses, green pruning is a lighter intervention than winter pruning. Let's focus on the latter and see what the basic rules are for a good one pruning of roses.
The first rule applies not only to roses and concerns age: the older the plant and the less it needs to be pruned, the younger it is and the more it needs to be pruned. Furthermore, the winter pruning must be shorter (less incisive) on roses that have not yet rooted and longer on rooted ones.
We use the right tool. The most suitable scissors for pruning of roses they are those with two opposing blades, which give a sharper cut than the anvil blades. The latter, however, are more suitable for cutting dry branches. Having both is a great idea.
The pruning cut should be done with an inclination of 45 ° to prevent rain and dew from stagnating on the wound causing rot. Furthermore, the cut must be clean, without burrs, and made at least 0.5 cm above the gem to avoid re-ruining it.
All dry, weak or too old branches must always be removed and along their entire length. To distinguish a healthy branch from a dead one, look at the pith: that of healthy branches is light, that of dead branches is dark brown.
Let's think about roses as we prune them. Apart from taking into account the variety of roses on which you work, you must ensure that the roses never suffer from humidity and darkness, two enemies of roses. Light and air need to be able to penetrate the branches because roses need it.
Here we can buy good pruning shears
here a model the pruning shears with anvil blade